For most Falkland Island visitors, wildlife is the main attraction. Five species of penguins nest among the island's rocks and cliffs, mingling with black-browed albatrosses and giant, blue-eyed cormorants. Sea lions and elephant seals breed along the coasts and orcas, or killer whales, and dolphins may be spotted swimming close to shore. Even in camp rabbits and hares hop among grazing sheep and assorted geese, ducks and birds of prey are everywhere.
In most wildlife areas a map or a point in the right direction will lead visitors to sights they won't see anywhere else in the world. Leaving gates in fences in the position they are found and being careful not to tread on hidden nests is the only concern. A packed lunch is always available upon request; however, on chilly days, a lodge's hot lunch with a soup starter enhanced with a few drops of hot pepper infused sherry from the decanter that graces many Falkland Island tables is a welcome treat.
A week isn't long enough to visit all the wildlife destinations in the Falklands. Daily FIGAS flights make visits to remote areas possible. However, at roughly a Falkland Island pound (pegged to the British pound) a minute, they can be expensive. We visited a popular cruise ship destination, an island teeming with wildlife but accessible only by air, and a popular land excursion destination outside of Stanley in order to provide a sampling for website viewers.
West Point Island
West Point Island Photos
A call at West Point Island, off the northwest coast of West Falkland, has recently been added to many cruise ships' Antarctic and Patagonian programs. Due to its sheltered harbor, smooth beach and newly built jetty, landing here is not as weather- and tide- dependent as in other Falkland Island locations. Zodiacs land on the beach below the settlement and visitors follow a track up to the house of the island's owners, Lily and Roddy Napier.
From the settlement it's a 1 ¾ mile walk to Devil's Nose on the west side of the island. Here rockhopper penguins roost with black-browed albatrosses. The paths along smooth ground allow viewing from a medium distance and you can approach the colony through shoulder high tussic grass for close-up views and incredible photos. Watch your step so as not to startle lone albatrosses nesting under clumps of grass and don't be startled if a rockhopper hops on your boot on its way up the rocks from the sea to its roost.
The Napiers run Land Rover shuttles to and from Devil's Nose for those not wishing to walk. The walk back is easier and we suggest a ride out and a walk back. Striated caracaras, rare birds of prey elsewhere and locally known as Johnny Rooks, are likely to circle overhead as you cross the island's grazed turf.
Upon returning to the settlement, a traditional Falkland Islands tea is served in the Napier's rambling farmhouse, parts of which date back to 1880. The settlement is very picturesque and reminders are evident that it's still a working farm. On our visit an orphaned lamb the Napier's had adopted greeted us at the garden gate.
Sea Lion Island
Sea Lion Island Photos
Sea Lion Island, the southernmost inhabited island in the group, is a premier destination for wildlife viewing. Because beach landings here are weather dependant, a FIGAS flight (35-minutes from Stanley) is the most reliable way to arrive. The island's upscale Sea Lion Lodge, with seven en-suite rooms and two single rooms that share a bath is clean and comfortable and the food is excellent. This is where, after a particularly chilly morning, we discovered that a few drops of hot pepper-infused sherry in the soup served at lunch is a lovely custom.
A walk across the heath from the Sea Lion Lodge in most directions skirts the burrows of Magellanic penguins. Many species of waterfowl, in spring and summer with chicks in tow, are abundant and rare striated caracaras are common.
On Sea Lion Island's beaches huge male elephant seals defend their territory as bachelor seals try to invade their harems. If you don't block the path between the seals and the sea and you keep a distance from females with young cubs it's possible to move quite close.
Further down Sea Lion Island's shore gentoo penguins travel between their colonies in the dunes and the sea. At about 5 p.m. each day the sea boils as gentoos return from a day of hunting to scurry ashore. Most stop to shake dry and seem to socialize with other penguins before heading home to exchange nest-guarding duties with their mates. Some even stop at the fresh water ponds along the way for a bath.
A good hike, or easy Land Rover ride, from the Sea Lion Lodge one finds blue-eyed cormorants nesting alongside rockhopper penguins on naturally formed cliffs that bring to mind the ancient coliseums of Greece and Rome. Here it is easy to understand how these determined little birds got their name.
Volunteer Point
Volunteer Point Photos
Volunteer Point is a popular wildlife excursion from Stanley. The route through northern East Falkland passes rock rivers - geologic wonders of massive proportion - crosses the highlands and ends with a cross country experience beyond compare. At the end of the road there are king, gentoo and megellanic penguins sharing the privately owned farmland with grazing sheep. Accessible only by 4-wheel drive vehicles, this adventure begins with a 90-minute drive on the graded road from Stanley to Johnson's Harbour and another 90 minutes bouncing cross country to this wildlife refuge.
Once there, several colonies of gentoos penguins are within easy view and megellanic penguin burrows dot the greens along the coast. The large breeding colony of king penguins is the main attraction and well worth the trip. In spring it's possible to sit quietly near groups of the previous year's chicks and soon be surrounded by the large, curious toddler penguins looking for a meal. As is the case throughout the Falkland Islands, animals can touch you but you can't touch them. It's tough because they look sooo cuddly.
Take a picnic lunch and plan to spend a few hours watching penguins move between their colonies and the sea - just don't block their ocean access as it can disturb them. In case you're wondering, there's a clean, well-maintained pit toilet, but no concessions.
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